It's a problem of time and "Lahidu"

I've realized more and more over the last couple of months that there are some huge cultural divides between American and Malian cultures (duh, right?).  Unfortunately, we as volunteers often blame the slowness of development and projects on these cultural differences.  I'm not saying one culture or another is "better" than another, I'm just saying differences between cultures can make working together and mutual understanding difficult. Especially when you are more familiar with one set of customs and beliefs than another. 

Before volunteering in Mali, I was unaware of what American "culture" is; I think I even accused the US of lacking culture because we don't have some of the vibrant, colorful, musical and ancestral traditions that you find in civilizations older and more "exotic" than our own.  I realize now that I was completely wrong - so many parts of how I act and conceptualize my surroundings are based on American culture.  And, you have only to respect events like Bumbershoot, Folklife Festival or even a Grateful Dead concert to realize how "colorful" our culture can be.  I would like to start including cultural differences on my blog every once in awhile.  Keep in mind my observations are based on living in one small village in Mali and one bigger city in the US.

While working in my village, I have been faced with the issue of time on more than one occasion.  In America, we are obsessed with time.  Our planners are packed to the brim, sometimes we have every last 15-minute period of the day planned.  Unfortunately, this means that we have to plan get-togethers weeks or months in advance to be sure we get the attendance we desire.  And, it's important to be on time.  If you're late, you can mess up someone's 15 minute by 15 minute plan for the day.  I remember job interviews where I arrived to the building early, but was unsure whether I should go to the interview room 5 minutes early, 3 minutes early, right on time, 3 minutes late or 5 minutes late.  What is the etiquette on that anyway...and does it really matter?  I am sure someone has written a book on it at one time or another.

In Mali, this is not the case.  For instance, meetings with the women's group are held at night because it is the only time all of the women are available.  But, the word sufe (night) lasts from sunset until early morning.  And, hours aren't used here.  Last May, sufe meant to meet at 9 PM.  When I showed up for a meeting at 8:30 PM a few weeks ago (October), I was rebuffed by women who had arrived before 8 PM.  As far as the men, we were to meet "sogomadafe" one morning, and I was still eating breakfast at 7:15 AM when a man came by and said they were ready for me.  This week, I showed up at 7:30 AM for another "sogomadafe" meeting, and the first man didn't show up until 9 AM. Hard for an outsider to know.

Impromptu gatherings are also common here.  I can show up at any friend's house and expect a warm reception and food.  I don't even have to call in advance.  It is incredibly important to sit for 2 hours and share tea with friends on occasion.  If you only show up for work, they'll start to resent your presence. 

Another side of the time issue is "lahidu", which as far as I can tell might be translated as "commitment."  I went to tell Terena, the farmer I was working with, that I had received affirmative responses from all 10 men I had spoken with that day.  Each man replied that they would attend the meeting I had scheduled for the next morning.  Terena laughed, saying Malians lack "Lahidu".  Because of embarrassment or something else I can't understand, they will look me in the eye and say to my face that they will be there, even if they know that they won't.  Terena said I would be lucky if 5 men showed up.  I guess I was lucky, because 5 men did show up.  I have had people tell me they would be in in village for an important event, and to prepare for their presence, only to not show up.  The other side of this is that people sometimes get offended if I say I can't do something - even if I'm absolutely sure I won't make it to an event.  People seem more satisfied with, "Ni ala sonna (if God wills it), I will be there."  I find myself saying "maybe" all of the time, even when I know maybe means no. 

My friends tell me that Americans have a lot of Lahidu.  If we say we will do something or be somewhere, we will be there, barring unforeseen circumstances.  They also puzzle at how I know my schedule and/or what time it is.  I leave time behind to some extent while living here, but still find it important to plan out my activities to be sure that everything can get done when it needs to be.  As far as I can tell, Lahidu is one of the most important aspects of American culture, and is something largely missing from the village I currently live in.